Hooked on Sustainability—a new look at an old tradition
A plate of Hobson’s vegan fish and chips, fresh out of the fryer
LONDON, UK —Hobson’s Fish and Chips, located in the center of London Soho, has nailed the recipe. Freshly fried fish emanating with steam when cut open. The chips, still hot, a crispy golden-brown. A homey-feel to the place, warmth that spreads beyond the kitchen. Though their recipe honors the traditional British staple, they’ve turned in a contemporary direction in terms of their social impact, leading the way in sustainable dining.
Most chipperies use frozen-at-sea fish sourced in large batches. This is convenient for business, not only in terms of price but also due to dependability. Frozen fish is available year-round, ensuring that these chipperies will never have to worry about running out of stock. However, this convenience comes at a tremendous environmental cost. These fish are typically caught by massive industrial ships that drag huge nets through the water, catching anything and everything in its path, contributing to overfishing, killing “bycatch” species, and destroying the ocean floor ecosystem.
Hobson’s, by contrast, honors the traditional British staple while embracing health, ethics, and sustainability. They partner exclusively with local fishermen from Billingsgate Market, buying fresh fish daily, alternating between vendors of different countries based on changing migration patterns. Rather than industrial fishing techniques, these fishermen use a method called line-fishing, in which fewer hookings are cast on a long fishing line, which is much more selective in catch and much less invasive to seafloor ecosystems. This can drastically increase costs on the production side, but it pays off in the end. “The customers can taste the difference,” Mr. Ash Ergisi, manager of Hobson’s Fish and Chips, tells me.
He’s right, the food speaks for itself. I order their vegan fish and chips (even more sustainable than sustainably sourced fish!) and he talks me through his process of developing the recipe. He tried aubergine as the base for vegan fish, first. The flavor was “out of this world,” but the heat-based shrinkage made this method too expensive. Now, he uses banana blossom instead, recreating the flavor with a carefully crafted marinade. Delicious as it is, it’s not the final version. “I can see the vegan [fish] improving for another few years. Food is a never-ending process. It’s always evolving, even fish and chips,” he muses.
There’s a smile turning at the corner of his mouth, a twinkle in his eye. It’s clear he’s passionate about his craft. At Hobson’s, fish and chips are for everyone. Order vegan, gluten-free, or try the traditional dish, without the guilt of consequences. Mr. Ergisi’s insights and processes show that business can go hand in hand with sustainability, and it tastes even better when it does.
